Tag Archives: sewing

Woa

Woa, I finished a shirt while taking three classes and working full-time. To be fair this shirt has been cut out for almost half a year. 

It’s a pretty straightforward pattern, although I continue to dread any pattern with gathers. Why is it so hard to get an even gather?!

Another continued theme, I love my blind hemmer, still. Maybe each time more.

All in all. I like the pattern and the fit and I’ll probably do another in a different fabric.It’s perfect for work, me thinks.

Dealing

The elections and aftermath have been challenging to say the least. To deal with the heaviness of it all, I decided to try to keep as occupied as possible by taking three classes this semester.

I’m currently enrolled in patternmaking II at FIT and Construction I and Web Fundamentals at New School. Thankfully the take home work hasn’t been too grueling and I’ve managed to keep my weekends mostly free.

Classes at New School are much less detailed than FIT. So far, it’s hard to tell whether the Construction I will actually expand my skills significantly. I have learned to drape a bodice, but we won’t get to skirts or pants. I do like draping more than I thought though and I think it’s going to really help with my fitting skills.

I realized finally that my sideseam measurement is an inch too wide as can be seen in the pic below

So far, patternmaking II has been all a review of PM I. I suspect the concepts will accelerate in the next class… I hope!

Web Fundamentals is funner than I thought it would be. I don’t know if I could teach myself though. The idea of coming home and reading HTML and CSS coding does not appeal to me in the least. The class setting has been so critical in keeping me on task.

Ladies Tailoring I

I finished Ladies Tailoring I at FIT on Monday. I spent an entire semester sewing just TWO skirts.In fairness. I employed several techniques that were new to me. Hong Kong binding, sewing a full lining, using a felling and pick stitch, sewing on an industrial sewing machine.

But, I live in NJ and spent nearly 3 times as much on the class as my classmates, and my professor’s instruction was pretty disappointing. He often forgot names of stitches, never gave handouts and forget discussing alternative methods or historical context.

I’m glad it’s over and happy with my skirts. I wore the orange one (fabric from Mood) yesterday and the green wool one today.

Soldiers Dress

As soon as I finished my pattern grading class I finished up on a dress that had been half finished for months. I basically just needed to fix the straps together and hem the bottom. I didn’t have enough fabric at the bottom to hem without adding a strip to fold up. Pretty straightforward except that my blind hemmer was acting up. It took me several tries to catch the serged edge all the way around. I think it works best when the needle is catching a folded over edge of fabric… lesson learned.

I used Simplicity 2916.

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I’m very pleased with the results.

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It’ll be a great fall dress. I just wish I had lined it!

And, yes, those are soldiers on my dress.

Pattern Grading: Done

I finished the Pattern Grading class at FIT last week. It was intense!

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I think it would have been busy even if it hadn’t been a summer intensive class. Still 3 days a week from 6:30 – 10:20 was grinding. I must’ve made approximately 10 nested patterns, which means I madeĀ  at least 60 patterns in 5 weeks.

Things I wish I had known/done beginning class one:

– bought a mono eraser

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– bought a .3 mm mechanical drafting pencil
– measured my work more consistently

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Overall the class was interesting and should be helpful in sizing up/down some of my old vintage patterns. Given the intensity and redundancy of some of the work, I’m not sure I would have taken this. I think learning this style of grading would have been difficult from a book, so it’s a tough call.

In any case, it’s done. Whew!

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Midway

It’s week eight of my patternmaking class at FIT. We finished the bodice, sleeve and skirt and this week we are working on manipulating darts.

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I really like the teacher; she’s really patient and experienced. My only criticism of the class is the syllabus doesn’t suggest additional resources/text. I ended up buying a patternmaking book by Helen Armstrong because I missed one class and also the notes I took in class aren’t always legible. It’s interesting to see the subtle differences (1/4 in here or there) between her instructions vs the book. I wonder if it’s due to her experience, an accepted method at FIT or the forms we are using.

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Overall, I’m enjoying the class. I was a little worried because I took patternmaking when I couldn’t get into Ladies Tailoring. I was concerned it would be too technical and tedious… Also it eats half my Sunday. While it can be laborious, I like it anyway.

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Class Two – Drafting the Back Bodice

The second class and assignment went smoothly. I finished the assignment in class, actually. It may have helped I took a pattern making class before based on Dorothy Moore’s book :

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Compared to the Moore book, the measurements are slightly more comprehensive at FIT, so far anyway. I will agree with other bloggers though that the FIT class is only focused on measuring a dress form… to the point that we are instructed to find and measure from specific seams on the dress form. I’m not sure how this translates to actual people…

Photos to come.