Tag Archives: shirt

Sleeve Placket

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It took me months to face the sleeve plackets on my western shirt and I’m still not happy with how they turned out.  The pattern called for a more simple version than the traditional plackets you see on collared shirts. Even so, I found the plackets incredibly difficult and tedious in the same way I loathe applying bias binding. The front stitching looks ok but like bias binding, I can never catch the back evenly. Also, because of the tight curve at the top of the slit it looks like I created a wrinkle shooting from the apex. I’m not certain of the wrinkle because the slit closed gives another shape. I’ll have to wait until the cuff it on to really be sure.

Because I HAD to take a break from the wrist area, I managed to make progress with a sleeve, easing it in without any tucks. Woohoo! I think I may have cheated by shrinking the armpit/ shoulder hole of the sleeve and enlarging the armpit hole of the bodice. Hopefully that doesn’t have a negative impact on the fit. When I tried it on, it seemed to fit, though.

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happy three three.

I finished my shirt on my birthday.

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I used a French seam instead of a facing on the collar and I decided against the sleeve cuffs. I used facing on the sleeves and fabric adhesive to keep the facing in place. I will be making more of these.

Shirt, Shirt, Apron

I didn’t get as much sewing done as I would have liked this long Thanksgiving weekend. I did manage to start two projects and make a small amount of headway on the western shirt.

IMG_20141130_215034IMG_20141130_215606~2IMG_20141130_215054To right is one of the new projects I started. Actually, I had been working on tracing the pattern onto Swedish tracing paper for a couple of weeks now.

I really love this tracing paper because it’s easy to trace and it’s durable – I can pin it without concern it will rip. I am slowly trying to trace all my vintage patterns, so I don’t have to worry about damaging them when I trace and cut.

When I finished copying the pattern, I decided to cut out the shirt on a remnant gifted to me. It’s such a small remnant, I ran out of fabric for the collar, so I’m going to have some extra seams lines in the back. Oh well. I usually consider my first of any pattern a muslin anyway.

I’m completing the yellow version above. I’m really excited to see what the finished shirt looks like. I tried it on already and I really like the silhouette. I think the boatneck collar will be really pretty.

IMG_20141130_215725~2 IMG_20141130_215244~2 IMG_20141130_215223~2 IMG_20141130_215234~2Then there’s this apron pattern. I enlarged the a-line version on the left. If you look closely you can see this is a girl’s size 6-8, so it needed to be much bigger.

It was my first time slicing a pattern and I think it looks pretty good. It’s a bit loose, but I think it should be loose if you plan to wear it over your clothes. I need to shorten it and add pockets. I may add some other design elements like embroidery, but I haven’t decided yet.

And finally, the western shirt is coming along, although slowly. I find I need to work on short projects when I’m completing something more challenging. I like to be able to take breaks from the more difficult project.

You can see the fabric is the same for both of these projects. I don’t particularly like the color and the quality of the fabric is awful. It’s just some $2 stuff I picked up for muslins, so I guess it fulfills its purpose.

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Long-sleeved, cotton blend jersey shirt.

Last year I tested a roomy long-sleeved shirt pattern from the 80’s. The shoulder seams are intentionally placed further down the sleeve and I liked the way it draped. When I tested the pattern, I used a cheap polyester and it turned out surprisingly well. I don’t wear  the muslin to work because the fabric is flawed, but it’s one of my favorite winter, weekend shirts.

I wanted to try the same pattern in cotton jersey. I find jersey difficult to sew and I want to master that skill. The last time I sewed with jersey, the neckline stretched out and I had to make some alterations to the pattern just to make it wearable. This time around, I’m prepared; I bought a twin needle. I’m still not sure I want to use the twin needle, though. The neckline has a facing and I blind-hemmed it thinking I might want to keep the sleeves and shirt bottom with the raw edge since jersey has a tendency to curl nicely giving a somewhat finished edge.

Here’s where I’m at:

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